Vermont, food and friends

The Engineer and I just spent the weekend with eight friends in a beautiful country house in Vermont. It belongs to the parents of the friend I’ll call the Actor. The house is in a somewhat remote location, in a beautiful and quiet town. The Actor had given us interesting directions, part of which read, “After crossing the border, continue driving straight until you get... anywhere. Once there, turn left.” But believe it or not, we made it.




We spent most of the weekend cooking, playing games (scrabble, pool, ping-pong, video games and a plethora of board games), using the Jacuzzi (but not the sauna), watching movies, reading and enjoying the huge lawn and pond. The Engineer even made friends with a frog.



It was truly a fantastic weekend. That view from the dining room is hard to beat, and the setting was just fantastic.




I’ll mention right now that two of my friends are actually the best amateur chefs I know (without counting my mother, of course). There’s J. (I mentioned her before, she gave us some fancy olive oil) and there’s Jason, the Toronto lawyer. I thought of calling him the Lawyer-Chef, but he gave me permission to use his first name, so Jason it is. J. had made delicious banana-chocolate chip muffins, fresh blueberry muffins, and two loaves of friendship bread (one cinnamon and one chocolate). Jason brought homemade sablés, marshmallows (for S’mores with J.’s homemade graham crackers), and a chocolate cake that he referred to as a glorified brownie (it was meant to be under-baked, though there was so much butter in it that the first bite felt like pure frosting). His carry-on suitcase consisted purely of food and cooking utensils!





I brought chocolate chip cookies made using my pizookie recipe.



We also stopped at Hannaford’s on the way there to stock up on groceries to feed 10 people for three days.

On the first night, we had dinner at a restaurant called The Belfry. It was absolutely delicious, and inexpensive too. The menu has some great selections (for starters, I recommend the onion rings and the “Dem” potato skins). Don’t forget to check out the day’s specials on the chalkboard in the entrance, which has a selection almost as big as the menu. I had the grilled pork chop with apple cider and maple glaze, which was excellent. The Engineer had penne with a rosé sauce and Italian sausage, also delicious.

The first morning we spent at the house, we had J.’s muffins and breads for breakfast, along with fruit and yogurt. For lunch, I made a chickpea and carrot salad, and everyone nibbled on chips, vegetables, dips, cold cuts, cheeses and such.



For dinner, the Engineer made six pizzas (I’ve mentioned before that he is working his way through Baking Illustrated one recipe at a time, and he is currently in the pizza section). I was the sous chef for him, and we made two white pizzas (with three types of cheese; one pizza had olives, the other didn’t), two margherita pizzas and two pepperoni pizzas. We were churning them out at such a nice pace that it was like we had done this before (well, we had made pizzas, but not that many for a single dinner!).






In parallel, Jason was making spaghetti sauce with ground beef and vegetables, and he then made his own pasta from scratch, with R. (J.’s husband) helping. It was all delicious, even though it was a bit much! We finished eating out on the patio as night fell, and we got to see some bats.









The second morning, we saw a doe near the pond, but she fled quickly once she spotted those of us who were awake.



J. then made pancakes for brunch, one batch of which was lactose-free. (She had thought of me first, and it then turned out that Jason’s girlfriend, E., who we were meeting for the first time, is also lactose-intolerant. We all felt that she was very brave to agree to this weekend: stuck with eight strangers, some of whom happen to be Jason’s closest friends and who have known each other for the past 20-odd years, for three straight days! But everything went well, and we all thought she was wonderful.)





There were a few hot-dogs and sandwiches for lunch. Dinner was another J. and Jason production, with R. helping and me doing a little seasoning and mixing: a 15-lb turkey seasoned with salt, pepper, olive oil, lemon and onion, along with two pans full of roasted vegetables (potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots, beets, onion and garlic, along with salt, pepper, olive oil and rosemary). R. and J. had made those vegetables at their New Year’s party this year, and it could very well have been the first documented time that I had a second helping of vegetables. I found out recently that even though I’m still not fond of canned or pickled beets, fresh beets are much better. This time, the vegetables were just as good as I remembered, and the turkey was great too.






Just after our meal, a wild turkey with a bunch of poults came running out of the woods – I guess it figured that they were safe, now that we had eaten! The evening ended with some heated debates during a game of Scattergories.





Brunch the next day was two onion quiches that J. made (one lactose-free), along with leftovers.



We eventually made our way back home, with another pit stop at Hannaford’s to buy things that are either hard to find or unavailable in Montreal. The Engineer and I bought quality chocolate (bittersweet and semisweet), some vanilla Tofutti, French Fried Onions and a frozen California Pizza Kitchen pizza (five cheeses and tomato, one of my favourites; I wish they had a Canadian franchise!). Also, I just fell in love with Tofutti. I’ll write some more about it once I locate an outlet in Montreal and try more of their products.

Lactose Intolerance

I decided I had to write this today, after seeing a post on The Kitchn which again infuriated me on this topic. People just don’t seem to understand lactose intolerance. It’s been turned into a joke (just watch Burn After Reading). Even people who try to look like experts don’t always know what they are talking about.

What bothered me today in particular was an article written by an ex-cheesemonger, with an introduction paragraph that basically said that people who have symptoms after eating cheese are probably allergic to dairy, not lactose-intolerant. That is not true. First of all, the symptoms of an allergy are not the same as those of a food intolerance. Second of all, as I’ve said on many occasions, some cheeses have lactose and others don’t. In general, the more aged a cheese is, the less lactose it contains, because during fermentation, some bacteria break down the lactose. So an aged cheese like parmesan or Swiss should be fine for most lactose-intolerant people, but many fresher cheeses (like cottage cheese, ricotta or mozzarella) still contain a lot of lactose. You also need to keep in mind that there are varying degrees of lactose intolerance. I know people who describe themselves as only mildly lactose-intolerant and who can digest dairy much more easily than I can. However, I’m not at the extreme end of the spectrum either, because I’ve never reacted to the lactose in my birth-control pill (for example), whereas some people need special prescriptions for medication that does not contain lactose.

Then, to make matters worse, the comments following the article made me realize just how stupid/misinformed/ignorant people are about this condition. One person says, “I roll my eyes when a certain person I know turns down foods with CHEDDAR because of ‘lactose intolerance’. Come on! Just because cheese makes you gassy, doesn't mean you are lactose intolerant! Geesh!” Well, what do you think symptoms of lactose intolerance are, exactly? Spontaneous combustion? Gas is actually one of the major symptoms of lactose intolerance, along with bloating, cramps and diarrhea. So yes, someone with lactose intolerance will most probably either turn down mild cheddar or take lactase pills with it. There is some aged cheddar that is easier to digest, however, and the Live Active cheddar from Kraft is also lactose-free, thanks to all the probiotics in it.

Someone else also suggested cheese made from sheep or goat milk, saying that is was okay for people with lactose intolerance. It is not, and I wish people would stop repeating such nonsense! All mammals produce lactose in their milk. Someone who is intolerant to lactose will have trouble/be unable to digest milk, be it from a cow or a goat. As a matter of fact, even goats can be lactose-intolerant. I’ll also give you a link to a great article that I recommend you read, in order to have more information on this subject.

So, what is lactose intolerance? It is when your body cannot digest lactose. Lactose is a sugar found in milk. In most people of Northern-European descent, the small intestine contains an enzyme called lactase. Lactase breaks down the lactose into smaller molecules called glucose and galactose, which can then be absorbed by your body. But when there is no lactase to break down the lactose, as is the case for people who are lactose-intolerant, the lactose stays in the intestine and starts to ferment, causing bloating and producing a gas with a distinctive smell (which can actually be used to diagnose lactose intolerance). In some cases, there is so much air that the body reacts by evacuating the content of the intestines a.s.a.p., which causes diarrhea. Here is a really good explanation, even though the author is neither a doctor nor a scientist.

Again, there are two kinds of lactose intolerance. Primary lactose intolerance is hereditary and it usually becomes noticeable when a person is in his/her early twenties. This is because as a general rule, adult mammals lose the ability to digest lactose, to a certain degree (though there is such a thing as lactase persistence). When it becomes noticeable (which happens more often in populations that are Asian or African than in Northern European ones), the adult is said to be lactose-intolerant. There is also secondary lactose intolerance, which can be temporary and is usually caused by some trauma (disease, surgery, drugs, etc.). In either case, treatment is the same: either avoid lactose, or ingest the correct quantity of lactase alongside it to counter its effects. Unfortunately, the only way to find the correct dosage for your level of intolerance (depending each time on which product you eat and on how much of it you eat) is by trial and error.

I feel the need to repeat that just because someone is lactose-intolerant doesn’t mean that he/she can’t drink dairy milk. Grocery stores have a relatively good selection of lactose-free cow milk, and it usually tastes just the same (I recommend Natrel brand; I did not like Lactaid brand, which had a weird aftertaste; I have yet to try the Lactancia). This is also nothing new; it had been in stores alongside regular milk for years by the time I became lactose-intolerant, in 2004. Yet I still meet people, some of whom are even lactose-intolerant, who have no idea this product exists. But in order to eat dairy again, you just need to understand what lactose is and how it is broken down. For example, most yogurts that have active bacteria in them will be easy to digest, because the lactose will be broken down before you eat it. But you have to read the label, because some yogurts on the market do not have live cultures. Similarly, traditional sour cream was made through fermentation, and the lactose in it was broken down before it ever reached the store. These days, however, most companies cut costs by adding an acidic component to cream in order to make it curdle and sell it as sour cream, so that product is still full of lactose. As a general rule, the more dairy is processed, the more likely it is to still contain lactose (for example, real parmesan is fine, but parmesan from a green can is not). You just have to educate yourself about this condition and open your eyes in the stores – the variety of lactose-free dairy products or dairy replacements increases all the time.

How I conquered my nemesis (or: Broccoli slaw, and a frittata)

I had mentioned before my aversion to broccoli. I’ve referred to it as my nemesis on several occasions. However, I must admit that perhaps I hadn’t been introduced to it properly. When I was a child, my mother served it cooked (boiled or steamed), on the side of a plate. It was bitter, and I always hated it. My mother, in a misguided effort to help me (hi, Mom!), always said, “At least eat the stem.” So I grew up believing that the stem was the most tolerable part of the broccoli – but really, it’s the toughest and most bitter, right? Aren’t the florets easier to eat, and isn’t that where all the nutrition is anyway?

When I saw on Smitten Kitchen a recipe for broccoli slaw, I decided I would be brave and try it. I finally did, and was very pleasantly surprised. Raw broccoli is not as offensive to me as cooked, and the florets are better than the stem. I must admit I had doubts at first, because the smell as I was cutting it was reminding me of the Brussel sprout fiasco, and the taste wasn’t what I would call pleasant. But I persevered, and with the dressing and other ingredients, this slaw was actually quite good! So here is the recipe thanks to which I have declared a truce with broccoli (but only as long as it’s served like this). It still contains more vitamins and antioxidants in its raw form, as far as I know.



2 heads of broccoli
1 handful of chopped almonds
1 big handful of dried cranberries
3-4 stems of celery, chopped
½ small red onion, chopped

Trim the broccoli and keep the florets. Cut them into small pieces. Put them in a bowl, add the other ingredients and mix.




Dressing
½ cup buttermilk or lactose-free milk with lemon juice, well stirred
1/3 cup low-fat mayonnaise
2 Tbsp cider vinegar
1 dash of sugar
salt and pepper, to taste
herbs and seasoning, to taste (I used basil, oregano and roasted garlic powder)



Mix all the ingredients. You can either pour the dressing on the salad, mix and serve, or only dress individual servings right in the plate.




I served it here with a frittata. It’s funny, because I had largely forgotten about the existence of this dish. But I was reminded of it again recently, and I realized that not only is it good, it is also easy – AND a great way to use up whatever is lying around in the fridge. I threw in the rest of the red onion from the slaw, the Swiss chard from this recipe, the grated carrots from that recipe, some green onions, as well as the fontina, mozzarella and parmesan left over from the Engineer’s last pizzas. And eggs, of course. I cooked the red onion in the pan first, added the other vegetables and cooked them until the Swiss chard was starting to wilt. I added the eggs and cheese and put the pan in the oven at 350 °F until the frittata was set, then I broiled it for a few minutes until the top was brown. It was delicious!

Un petit mot sur les boutons

Je tiens à prendre deux minutes pour vous parler de mon fibulanomiste. Un fibulanomiste, c’est quelqu’un qui collectionne des boutons. Vous me direz qu’il ne les collectionne pas pour moi, les boutons, et que ce n’est donc pas MON fibulanomiste. Mais je vous arrête tout de suite, parce que Richard Letendre a toujours eu dans son magasin LE bouton que je cherchais, même quand j’ignorais de quoi il aurait l’air. C’est que je tricote relativement souvent de petits chandails pour bébés (les bébés des autres pour l’instant). Mais puisque je choisis toujours la laine sur le coup de l’inspiration (chez Mouliné) et que le patron du chandail varie, on pourrait penser que ce serait difficile de trouver des boutons de la bonne couleur et de la bonne grosseur pour aller avec ledit chandail.

En fait, ce qui fait la force de Rubans, Boutons..., c’est non seulement la taille de l’inventaire (impressionnant tout de même), mais surtout la manière dont les boutons sont classés. Tous par couleur et taille semblables, parfaitement ordonnés dans des tubes en plastique. Vraiment, c’est un plaisir d’entrer dans ce magasin et d’y flâner, mais c’est encore plus plaisant en sachant qu’on y trouvera le bouton qu’on cherche! Il y a aussi de très beaux bijoux faits à partir de boutons (je suis la fière propriétaire d’un bracelet, et je compte y acheter une grosse bague éventuellement) ainsi qu’un grand choix de rubans.

Le magasin a déménagé : il est passé du Plateau, sur Saint-Denis, à la section de Saint-Hubert où sont situés les magasins de tissus. C’est sûrement logique, car il y a beaucoup de gens dans le coin qui doivent chercher des boutons. Moi, je trouve l’emplacement moins pratique, mais c’est bien sûr relatif. Je le recommande tout de même fortement, c’est un magasin vraiment génial!

Strawberry Sorbet with Rosewater

I mentioned before that my anniversary gift from the Engineer was an ice cream maker. I’ve started experimenting with sorbets and lactose-free ice cream, with wonderful results. Before I had this wonderful machine, I made sorbets on occasion, but they were more like granités, really. They were good, but they didn’t have the consistency I was looking for. But with an ice cream maker, this problem has been solved! I can also make artisanal lactose-free ice cream, which had never been an option before (most stores that do sell artisanal flavours, which I much prefer to most of what grocery stores offer, never bother making any of it lactose free). Now, though, I can just add lactase drops in the cream, or use lactose-free milk, and I’m all set. I’ll be sharing recipes as I perfect them.

On a side note, I really think that the single best purchase the Engineer and I have made in the past year was the KitchenAid stand mixer, and the ice cream maker attachment was the best gift I could have asked for.

I got the idea for this delicious sorbet from Dessert First. It’s still strawberry season here, and I have plenty of rosewater left over from this recipe, so it seemed a natural fit.

4 cups strawberries, washed and hulled
2/3 cup sugar (less if the strawberries are very ripe)
3 Tbsp rosewater
1 Tbsp lemon juice
1 pinch of salt

In a food processor, purée the strawberries until smooth. Strain through a mesh sieve to remove the seeds and extra pulp.



In a bowl, combine the puréed strawberries with the sugar, then add the rosewater, lemon juice and salt. Refrigerate the mixture until it is cold.

Freeze in an ice cream maker as per manufacturer’s instructions, then store in freezer for about an hour before eating.






In this picture, the sorbet is served alongside Edna Lewis’ Busy-Day Cake. The Engineer referred to this sorbet as “freakin’ delicious”, which is saying a lot, since he usually only tolerates strawberries.

Busy-Day Cake

I found this recipe on Orangette, but it’s actually one of Edna Lewis’ recipes. Honestly, just one look at that woman’s face and I can already tell that I would probably love anything she put on the table! This cake, though simple, was absolutely delicious. You should make it even if you’re not busy!

1 stick unsalted butter or margarine
1 1/3 cups granulated sugar
3 large eggs
2 tsp vanilla extract
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 tsp baking powder
¼ tsp. salt
1 good pinch freshly grated nutmeg, or more
½ cup milk, at room temperature

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease a 9” springform pan.

With an electric mixer, cream the butter and the sugar until light and fluffy. One by one, add the eggs, beating well after each addition. Add the vanilla extract, and beat to blend.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, and nutmeg.

Add about ¼ of the flour mixture to the butter mixture, and beat on low speed to incorporate. Add 1/3 of the milk, and beat again. Add the remaining flour mixture in three more doses, alternating each time with a bit of milk, and beating to just combine. Do not overmix. Using a rubber spatula, scrape down the sides of the bowl and stir to incorporate any flour not yet absorbed.

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan, spreading it evenly across the top. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. This cake has a tendency to brown quickly on top, so after about 20 minutes, you might want to peek into the oven and tent the cake with aluminum foil if necessary.



In the picture here, the cake is served alongside two small scoops of strawberry sorbet with rosewater.

Burgers au poulet avec sauce soja et gingembre

J’avais dit que je vous donnerai cette recette un beau jour, quand j’ai parlé de mes hamburgers à la dinde. La voici!

1 carotte râpée (½ tasse), égouttée
1 blanc d’œuf
2 oignons verts, finement hachés
2 gousses d’ail, finement hachées
½ tasse de panko (chapelure japonaise) ou de chapelure ordinaire
2 c. à soupe de sauce de soja
1 c. à soupe de racine de gingembre râpée
1 c. à soupe de cassonade
1 c. à thé d’huile de sésame
1 lb de poulet haché
6 pains à hamburger
Garniture : concombre, luzerne et laitue

Dans un bol, fouetter le blanc d’œuf; ajouter la carotte râpée, les oignons, l’ail, le panko, la sauce de soja, le gingembre, la cassonade et l’huile. Ajouter le poulet et mélanger.

Former 6 galettes de ½ pouce d’épaisseur.

Cuire à feu moyen dans une poêle, en les retournant une fois, pendant 15 minutes (ou jusqu’à ce que la température interne soit de 165 °F / 74 °C).



Servir sur les pains et garnir de concombre, de luzerne et de laitue. Et si possible, utiliser des pains Thintinis, ils sont parfaits pour la recette.