Hawaii

I fully intend to catch up on most recipes since I last wrote (I’ve been busy with my career and am getting close to achieving an important goal, so it’s all good!). In the meantime, I decided to write a blog post about my recent trip to Hawaii, as both a place to keep the information for future reference and in the hopes that it could help shape someone else’s vacation.

I took the Engineer and the boys on a trip to Hawaii earlier this summer, and we had a great time! We split our time between Big Island and Oahu, with roughly five days on each island, and here’s how it went. (If you want a quick guide on the main islands, try this or that, and for more information on Big Island in French, this is great!)

We arrived in Kona at midday, picked up our rental car and made our way to our first stop, the Vanillerie, which is very close to the airport. I really wanted to see vanilla beans in various growth stages! We were lucky to get a quick tour, and Candee gave us tons of information about the plant itself and everything that goes into preparing vanilla for consumption. Did you know that the flower of the vanilla plant only blooms for 4 hours, and must be pollinated by hand if it is to produce a bean? We also got to see the inside of the humidor where the beans are matured, and it smelled just heavenly. We made some purchases at the gift shop, then went to a boba cafe for sustenance, a grocery store for the same, and spent the night at the Sea Village.

The next day, we started with a quick swim at Magic Sands Beach Park, then drove to the other side of the island, taking the northern route. Kona is relatively dry, but things get much greener and more humid as you make your way to the other side of the island! We stopped for lunch at Ippy’s Hawaiian BBQ in Waimea, where we got to try lots of local foods and everything was delicious!

We went to Waipi’o Valley Lookout, which is absolutely worth the drive. The scenery was breathtaking! We also got to learn about King Kamehameha, which would come in handy later in the trip. We then made our way south to Hilo, where we stayed at Arnott’s Lodge. Our room was very spacious, which was great, and we had the loveliest chorus of birds and frogs to go to sleep every night. In Hilo, we did most of our shopping at KTA (we ate our fill of poke and drank a lot of POG!), though I can also recommend Hilo Burger Joint and Tetsumen. We also went to the Hilo Farmers Market to buy tropical fruits we couldn’t try elsewhere.

Day 3 had us doing an activity I was *really* looking forward to – visiting a chocolate farm! We went to Lavaloha, where I had prebooked a tour. We were lucky to have good weather – tours go on rain or shine, and since Hilo is the rainiest city in the U.S., make sure you bring some kind of poncho just in case (though they do lend out umbrellas). We got to see cacao trees on the farm, we tasted fresh cacao beans with the pulp, and we had a chocolate tasting with five of their bars. (Full disclosure: I booked the tour in April, then in May their kitchen burned down, and we visited in June, when they were using other kitchens part-time to make their chocolate.) This was one of my favorite parts of the trip! The location itself was absolutely gorgeous, too, and remote enough that we saw wild pigs and mongooses on the way. We then spent the afternoon at Carlsmith Beach Park; we had to step down into a small lagoon to have access to the ocean, but once there, the water was clear and so comfortable for swimming! The Engineer lost his wedding ring, and the Little Prince managed to find it, so he wins the day. We then took a quick look at Onekahakaha Beach Park as well.

        

The next day was our visit to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, and I will tell you right now, go there EARLY! We got there around 8am and first went to see the Nuhuku lava tube – we had the place almost to ourselves. We then made our way to the active site, stopping at scenic points along the way (don’t miss the steam vents!). We got to see an active lava eruption, which was fantastic, though of course conditions vary. Note also that it was a warm and sunny day, but we could have used a windbreaker up there. When we left, a bit after 10am, there was a line of cars waiting to get in! If you can go early or late, try to do that; otherwise, be patient with everyone, and understand that you may have to park and then hike to the point you want to see if there are no available spots close by.

We had lunch in Hilo, which has a really nice area with shops and restaurants. In the afternoon, we went to Richardson Ocean Park, which has a nice black sand beach. (There is actually some green sand in there too if you look closely!) Entering the water was easier than at Carlsmith, but there are still some rock formations to watch out for.

On our last day on the island, we drove back to Kona and stopped at Mauna Kea on the way. We did not attempt to make it past the visitors’ center (going higher is not recommended for children 12 and under, and we did not have the right type of vehicle), but it was a great experience nonetheless. We were higher than the clouds! And the scenery on the way up and down was beautiful. We had lunch in Kona, on the patio of Aloha Vibes, which was right on the ocean.

There’s so much more to see and do on Hawaii Island! We could have hiked to Akaka Falls, but I had seen them already and the rest of my crew wasn’t interested. I would have liked to go see the green sand at Mahana Beach on the southern tip of the island, but again, I was the only one interested, and it would have taken up hours, so we didn’t do it. It all depends on what your interests and limitations are.

After a short flight to Honolulu, we checked in to the Hilton Hawaiian Village. Now, I stayed there once in 1994 (my parents paid) and once in 2007 (the Engineer’s university paid), and even though this place is much more expensive than what I normally book, we just decided to treat ourselves and be right on Waikiki Beach. And… I’m not saying I regret it, but the place had changed tremendously in the 19 years since I had been there – it’s like a small city now, and so crowded! The elevators certainly couldn’t keep up, so it was a blessing in disguise that we were only on the 4th floor. It was a nice hotel, but just wasn’t the experience I thought I was booking. That being said, Waikiki Beach is definitely the prototype of the sandy beach we wanted!

We spent a few days vegging there, because I think that an important part of beach vacations is to have days when your biggest decision is whether to swim in the pool or in the ocean. There are stores and restaurants nearby if you don’t want to be captive on the on-site places. And on our last day, since our plane was leaving in the evening, we rented a car and were much more active.

We started by going to Koko Crater Botanical Garden, which was free. My original plan had been to go to Little Plumeria Farm, but it was closed that day, and this allowed me to visit a grove of plumeria – one of my favorite flowers! It did not disappoint, and it’s a very short walkable loop directly at the entrance of the gardens. It had more kinds of plumeria than I had ever seen, and I realized that they even have different scents. It was amazing!

Then, we obliged the Fox, whose one request on this trip had been to go see the tallest statue in Hawaii, which is the one of King Kamehameha in Honolulu. We then drove north-west to Haleiwa, a scenic town that was much busier than I had anticipated. We had a delicious lunch at No7 Poke n’ Roll. I had a great poke bowl, and then it turned out they had lactose-free matcha swirl soft serve ice cream, so that was my dessert covered! It did mean that I no longer had room for a Haleiwa bowl further down the road, but that’s the way it goes. Before we left, we stopped at Laniakea Beach, where the Fox and I saw a sea turtle!

Finally, we started making our way back and stopped at the Dole Plantation – the Engineer called it Pineapple Buc-ee’s, and he’s not wrong! The gardens were beautiful and worth the admission price; the kids had fun in the maze (apparently the world’s largest); the souvenir shop as wild; Dole Whip is life. I hope to go again someday!

Seattle

In early June, we got to take a family trip to Seattle with the Engineer’s mother. We had a short trip (three days), but squeezed in the main things I wanted to see and do (and eat!), so here’s a quick summary.

Day 1
We got there midday, driving in from Seattle. Our first stop was Red Mill Burgers for lunch, which was quite good. I ordered the red onion jam burger, but was mistakenly given the verde burger, which was not at all what I had wanted, but I could tell that the base of the burger was great. One thing that I noticed there, and it was going to be a theme in the state of Washington, is that all of the items that registered in my brain as “disposable plastic” were in fact made from plant fibers and compostable! I wish they were standard everywhere – I know that in Texas, plastic is still the norm. And in Quebec, people complain about paper straws that don’t hold up. But these straws and cups seem like the perfect compromise!

We then went to our first attraction, the Chihuly Garden and Glass at the foot of the Space Needle. We bought tickets to visit both, and spent time in the former while waiting for our entry time at the latter. We had seen some of Chihuly’s work at the San Antonio Museum of Art, but this was so much more impressive! There are sculptures that are 20 feet tall, and in every color you can imagine! One of the docents told us that they are dusted every day before the museum opens (we were really wondering ). I really don’t know if I preferred the Sealife Tower, Mille Fiori, or the chandeliers. Most of the glass sculptures are indoors, but there are many outdoors as well, looking like alien flowers in the greenery. This was really worth the visit! The gift shop is also superb, and it took a lot of self-restraint on my part not to buy anything.

Then we moved on to the Space Needle. I liked that there are exhibits explaining its history as well as building factoids as the line of people winds its way to the glass elevators. The top has a revolving restaurant (honestly, it looked more like a bar with only small 2-seater tables); the viewing deck was nice, as we got beautiful views of both Seattle as well as Mount Rainier. This was worth the visit!

Then, we went to Pike Place Market. Honestly, this would be much better in the morning, as shops were closing up already when we got there, but our schedule was tight and this was the best we could do. I almost bought peonies, but I didn’t know if our lodging had a vase, so I ended up just taking pictures. We spent some time looking around, bought pastries at Le Panier, saw the flagship Starbucks with the original logo, and made our way down to the Gum Wall.

We had booked an Airbnb on Dayton Avenue, a nice townhouse near the Woodland Zoo. We stopped at Trader Joe’s on the way and bought our dinner there before settling in for the night.

Day 2
We started off our day with a visit to the Fremont Troll, which was just as I imagined it to be, except the surrounding area was nicer than I imagined it. You can actually climb on the troll as long as you are being respectful of the surroundings, and I think everyone in our group had fun.

We then swung by the Lake View Cemetery to pay our respects to Bruce and Brandon Lee. The site itself if wonderful, too! And it was on to our next stop.

As this was a Saturday morning, the first one of the month, we’d had to foresight to book free tickets to the Spheres. They are a greenhouse with tropical plants in downtown Seattle, and it’s a project by Amazon (the company, not the forest). As the Engineer says, it’s a bit like trying to book concert tickets, on that there’s a lot of demand and you need to keep refreshing the page until you can get through! And you can only book 4 tickets at a time. I really enjoyed the visit. Plus, we were delighted to see that there was a General Porpoise right on the premises, so of course we took a break for doughnuts – and yes, they were every bit as good as advertised! (The kids and I had a cinnamon sugar crueller, a Boston cream doughnut, and a marshmallow chocolate doughnut.)

We then went to lunch at The Whale Wins, which again was just as I had imagined it. It was much quieter than I had expected for a Saturday lunch, which was actually really nice! We ate quite well.

After a pit stop at our townhouse, the Engineer and I took the kids out for a few hours. Our first stop was to visit Frankie Feetsplinters. I’ve become obsessed with Thomas Dambo’s troll sculptures, and since there are six in the Pacific Northwest, I wanted to see some! (The map on his website is unfortunately impossible to navigate, but you can use this one for the USA.)

Our second stop was Discovery Park, where we took the trail recommended by Molly Wizenberg: “Park in the south lot, walk up and over the hill, down through the meadow that slopes toward Puget Sound, and then wind your way down through the woods to the beach. It’s beautiful, year-round.” Well, we didn’t have time to go down to the beach, but we saw the sound, and it was beautiful.

For dinner, since we wanted a broader gluten-free selection for my mother-in-law, we went to a/stir – it had a great menu, and the entire place is gluten-free! We didn’t try the dessert, because I had my heart set on a nearby shop…

We had dessert at Frankie and Jo’s. I had been waiting literally for years to go there! It’s a vegan ice cream shop with awesome flavors; even non-vegans from Bon Appétit love it! I tasted the Blueberry Lavender Pie ice cream (seasonal), and it was really great; I wish I had been hungry enough to eat that one too! I should have asked for a taste of California Cabin, too. But I went with the ones I’d had my eye on all this time, the Salty Caramel Ash ice cream and the Beet Strawberry Rose sorbet. They were out of this world! I’d really like to figure out the recipe for that sorbet in particular. And I just found out that Frankie & Jo’s ships their ice cream domestically, so that’s where my next paycheck is going…

Day 3
We drove out to Mount Rainier, which we’d been seeing from afar since we got there. You definitely have to get there early (before 9:00am) to get a parking spot, but keep in mind that the visitors’ pavilion doesn’t open until 10:00am. We had read that in early June, “it’s possible there will still be snow on the ground.” We’re Canadian, we figured that was totally fine. As it turned out, though, there was so much snow that one of the two trails we were considering (Nisqually Vista Trail) was closed, and the other (Skyline Trail to Myrtle Falls) was open, but… under a lot of snow. People starting their trek had spikes on their shoes (or snow shoes or skis), and walking sticks of ski sticks, and proper snow suits in most cases. I walked up the slope for a bit (maybe a total of 50 feet up, according to Strava), then decided that my shoes were not adequate and I went back down. (The Fox and his grandmother were waiting in the visitors’ center by then, and the Engineer and the Little Prince went up a bit further than I did.)

We did get to enjoy the scenery on the way up and down, though (at least, those of us who weren’t driving), and made a little stop at Narada Falls on the way down.

We then had lunch at Mount Rainier Railroad Dining Company, partly because it was a good location that offered some gluten-free options, and maybe partly also because in Vancouver, we hadn’t been to the “right” location of the Old Spaghetti Factory and I felt like I had been cheated out of the railroad car. This place was all railroad cars, though, and the food was really good! I ended up splitting a hamburger with the Fox because he finished his corndog and was still hungry; the Little Prince and my mother-in-law both had the salmon with blackberries, and the Engineer had the Montecristo sandwich.

On the way back, we stopped by Lincoln Park to see a second Dambo troll, Bruun Idun. I think I liked her more than Frankie! The surroundings are gorgeous, too, as she’s on the edge of the forest near the water. This was a great outing! And the kids spent a little time at the playground too.

We dropped off my mother-in-law at the townhouse so she could rest and made our way to Delancey. If you’ve been reading this blog for a while, you might know that I’ve been wanting to go to Delancey since… before it opened over 15 years ago? I can’t help it, I’m such a big fan of Molly Wizenberg, so I was following the whole thing on her blog (Orangette) and then read her memoir about that phase in her life. And on the way there, as we were driving downhill in Ballard, I think we passed her on her bike, then met up again with her at the intersection of 75th Street and 8th Avenue. Molly Wizenberg, if you were wearing a lime green bike helmet and biking with your toddler in her trailer, just know that I was super happy to catch a glimpse of you!

Anyway, we made it to Delancey. Somehow, this was also just as I imagined it, though I couldn’t sum up all the background info I got from Molly Wizenberg (and honestly, it’s not necessary to enjoy a good pizza!). The white pizza looked great, but I decided to go the classic route and got the margherita (and I took Lactojoy, which was totally worth it). We got some of their famous salted chocolate chip cookies to go, too.

So, I hadn’t realized that there was a Frankie & Jo’s literally next door, but what we had on our schedule that evening was Salt & Straw – I’d been wanting to go there ever since I saw this on Instagram! I tasted the Strawberry and Coconut Water Sherbet, and it was good, but I got the Peanut Butter Brittle Caramel Fudge, and that was fantastic! And Salt & Straw does sell online too, including a pack of dairy-free flavors.

Of course, with such a short stay, we didn’t get to do *everything*. If I ever go back, I’d like to go to Bateau, meet up with two friends who live there, maybe explore some neighborhoods more in depth or see more of Molly Wizenberg’s recommendations. And, like, eat at Frankie & Jo’s everyday!

Lambert's Cafe's Throwed Rolls

 

I could have sworn I posted about Lambert’s Cafe before… In a post where I talked about restaurants we’ve been enjoying on our summer road trip for the past few years, along with Payne’s and Naaman’s. But anyway, Lambert’s Café serves Southern comfort food and is most famous for its “throwed” rolls: waiters periodically come along with carts and, if you want bread, they will throw it at you! Those still-warm rolls are absolutely delicious, so it occurred to me that there must be a copycat recipe somewhere online, and I found this one. These are great! But make sure to serve them warm from the oven.

1 tsp. sugar
1 (¼-oz.) package dry active yeast
¼ cup tepid water (105-110 °F)
1 cup warm lactose-free milk
¼ cup melted lactose-free butter
¼ cup sugar
1 egg, beaten (at room temp)
1 tsp. salt
4 cups all-purpose flour

Combine sugar and yeast in tepid water. Let stand 5-10 minutes until yeast begins to foam.

Thoroughly mix milk, butter, sugar, egg and salt in large bowl (I used a stand mixer with the dough hook attachment).

Stir in the yeast mixture and 3 ½ cups of flour, adding a bit more if necessary to make a soft, pliable dough.

(For the following part, note that I did my kneading directly with the stand mixer and transferred the dough to an oiled bowl for it to rise.) Turn dough out on floured board and let rest while you clean and butter bowl. Knead dough gently 4-5 minutes, adding flour if necessary, until dough is smooth and silky. Return to bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise in warm place until doubled in size (1 ½ hours approximately).

Butter a 12-cup muffin tin.

(As for this part, I couldn’t remember exactly how Lambert’s rolls looked, but the photos showed rolls with three lumps instead of two, so that’s what I did – adjust accordingly.) Punch down dough. Pinch off pieces that are about 1 ½ inches in diameter (enough to fill one-half of muffin cup) and roll into smooth spheres. Place two such pieces in each prepared muffin cup – it will be a tight fit. Cover dough loosely with plastic wrap for 45 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350 °F.

Bake rolls for 20-25 minutes, or until light brown. Serve as soon as they are cool enough to throw.